The Summits of Drygarn Fawr

Adrian Hinchcliffe

We were on tour in central Wales and had stopped overnight at the New Inn at Newbridge on Wye where we were the first cyclists to stop at in the new Bunkbarn accommodation - well recommended. The next night we were booked into Dolgoch Youth Hostel in the upper Tywi Valley, so I was looking forward to an easy day ascending the winding valleys from Llanwrtyd Wells, with the exception of the climb over the Devils Staircase.

So, I was very surprised when we headed out of Newbridge in the direction of Rhayader but on the east side of the Wye. It was not far to Rhayader and we rode some brilliant lanes and rough tracks which afforded views of the Wye Valley and the hills to the east. A stop was made in Rhayader for provisions and lunch, and Bernard bought a pair of shorts from a charity shop.

Our party of four then headed west into the Elan Valley to Caban-coch the first reservoir, and after less than a mile on its shores took the first turn left heading for the remote Claerwen Reservoir. After two miles we took the first left to Llanerch Cawr and then a sharp right before turning left onto a well defined track (Grid Ref 899615) which immediately started to climb. This was the start of one of the toughest crossings that I have done in recent years.

We rode the first half mile or so going down to ridiculously low gear and we soon gained height with splendid views beginning to open out in a westerly direction. The other noticeable fact was, that with the exception of two walkers about a mile away, there was no one about, not even a shepherd, but this can be explained by the fact that it was the first full week in June (2006).

Soon the track gave way to a rough path and immediately we were lifting, dragging and pulling the bikes uphill through a boulder field and long grass. This soon took its toll and we stopped for lunch, or was it mid afternoon tea. Anyway, it went down very well sharing what was left of the sandwiches and goodies that we had brought from our homes two days before.

The hard graft of getting to this elevated place did cause an interest in the maps we had to try to work out how much more of this agonising plodding we had to do. Justin was adamant that we stayed on the footpath until we reached the Bwylch y Ddau Faen (Grid Ref 895588) even though there was a desire to cut across on to what looked like a good wheeling surface on the hill to the west.

We were heading for the summit of Drygarn Fawr which we were informed had two large cairns on the summit. But, there was no sign of these cairns even though we were pretty high at about 530 metres. The moors were riddled with sheep tracks therefore it was difficult to see a clear line that represented our route and we eventually came to the conclusion that the Ordnance Survey cartographer had simply draw a line on the map where it was thought the path should be.

We dropped down the head of the valley crossing the Nant Paradwys and up the steep moor beyond. I thought that my arm was about to get pulled out of its socket and along with Bernard we began to lose distance on John and Justin who were relishing this high level crossing. We were now up at around 570 metres and the moor was now flat and boggy with peat hags but at last we could see the twin cairned summit of Drygarn Fawr about one and a half miles away. We also noticed a number of way-marker posts but these did not run along the best route line.

This distance proved to be a real killer, the heavy bike and undulating surface, peat hags, long grass, stretches that needed the bike to be carried, all took its toll and on finally arriving at the summit I was just about all in. Bernard too, in his 79th year, lay down in the grass motionless for about 15 minutes.

We were on the highest summit around at 645 metres (Grid Ref 863584) and the views were exceptional in all directions and the weather had been very kind. We did find the energy to take photographs and enjoy the fruits of our labours. But, it was getting late and we still had to complete the crossing and then climb over the Devils Staircase.

The descent across the moorland proved easier than was anticipated but then we entered the forest. We took the nearest break in the trees that lined up with the footpath as shown on the map. It proved to be wet and at one point my three colleagues went up to their ankles in thick clinging mud which yours truly avoided by fighting my way through the adjacent branches.

After less than a quarter of a mile we hit a forestry track which took us downhill into the Irfon Valley at Llannerch yrfa where we hit tarmac. A ford provided a place for the mud to be washed away from man and bike and then we were off riding for less than half a mile before the Devils Staircase reared up in front. What a hill. Justin had a go at riding it but gave up on the first hairpin. For me, it was almost too much walking and pushing.

The descent into the Tywi Valley was classic, steep and fast and within minutes our destination of Dolgoch Youth Hostel was in sight. We arrived there at 9pm with just one person in residence.

The seven mile crossing from the Elan Valley to the Irfon Valley was tough especially with loaded bikes carrying a weeks gear. Was it worth it? Well, the memories are good but the effort required at the time did take the pleasure out of it.