Border Crossings - River Crossings
by Malcolm Lomas
Ffrydd House, Knighton, a wonderful eco-friendly Independent Hostel, was to be our home for the next few days.
Having read Tracey Maund's account of the Welsh Marches, John Kemp and I thought it was time we paid it a visit. We arrived in Knighton in time to visit the Offa's Dyke Centre and also to do a short ride. The road on the north bank of the River Teme took us to Llanfaire Waterdine, birthplace of Sir John Hunt of Mount Everest fame. Also the start of the Jack Mytton Way (Mad Jack), a route taking you through nearly 100 miles of Shropshire's most beautiful and unspoilt countryside.
Crossing over the river we enter Wales at Lloyney, the start of another trail, the Prince Llywelyn Ride. This takes you across central Wales to Borth and Ynyslas on the coast south of Aberdovey. Following the river back to Knighton we pass through Knucklas to view what is left of its castle and the impressive viaduct that carries the Central Wales Railway across the valley. It must have been quite a sight to see steam-hauled trains crossing it.
After our evening meal we settle in large easy chairs and sofas to plan for tomorrow. From a brochure that we pick up we decide on a 34 mile Two Border Town Rides of East Radnor. Following the line of the Central Wales Railway, quiet country lanes climb up through stunning countryside before dropping us down to Llangunllo. We sit in the sunshine by the War Memorial for a food stop.
Following the River Lugg easy riding gets us into Presteigne for lunch. A visit to the Judge's Lodging Tourist Office where we meet up with two guys riding Brompton folders. More quiet lanes follow the river to Upper Kinsham where we leave the river valley and turn northwards to Brampton Bryan where we cross the River Teme into Bucknell where even quieter roads take us back into Knighton.
A pleasant evening with our new guests from Germany and Spain.
Tomorrow's forecast is grim, a dull dark morning and heavy mist and drizzle. With capes on we set off towards Clun. At Five Turnings the rain stops and off come the capes. Narrow country lanes take us steeply down into a heavily wooded valley to Chapel Lawn. An equally steep climb takes us out of the valley via Hobarris and Woodside for a wonderful view of patchwork fields stretching into the distance. A steep plummet and we are down in Clun, to visit the YHA and Castle and lunch stop.
A visit to the state of the art toilets before the start of a long climb up onto the Offa's Dyke ridge. We follow the Jack Mytton Way up to crossroads high above the valley. A farm track takes us to Burfield and from there a stony track takes us over fields and through numerous gates before reaching a narrow tarmac lane. We have crossed over the Offa's Dyke without knowing it.
A few yards on tarmac and an overgrown bridleway leads up and onto a broad stony bridleway. The Offa's Dyke is much more noticeable here, a large ditch with an embankment on one side. Further along the bridleway we bump into our friends from the Hostel who are walking the Offa's Dyke Path. After running alongside Offa's Dyke for about 3 miles the bridleway swings to the right to leave the Dyke and drops steeply downhill to Grogue and then into Llanfair Waterdine. Easy lanes lead us back to Knighton, not before we are caught in a rain squall and have to don capes.
Back at the Hostel two ladies from Essex join us for the evening.
Next day we have to pack up and leave for home. We'll be back for sure, there is so much to do down here.
The Kerry Ridgway, a 15 mile drovers route west of Bishop's Castle never drops below the thousand feet contour, and many more bridleways through the Radnor Forest. Not forgetting the Radnor Ring, an 86 mile on-road ride with an optional off-road section for those who would prefer to ride on knobbly tyres.
On our way home we stop off at Ellesmere, to the east of Oswestry. After lunch in a delightful little cafe in town, we then pick up the towpath on the Shropshire Union Canal, cycle by way of Cole Mere to Lyneal where more quiet lanes take us back to Ellesmere via Welshampton. Tea and toasted currant tea cake in a roadside cafe on the A49 before fighting the teatime traffic round Manchester and home.
We shall return, Ffrydd House is a gem – the riding's not bad either.
Note. Details of how to obtain leaflets for some of the routes mentioned can be found in Cycle A-way, on the CTC website.