Falls of Glomach - Nursing a Knee
by Bob Callow
Time 6.30 am. early May at Morvich Caravan Club Site in Glen Shiel. I am doing a quick study of the GIS map trying to decide on a modest rough stuff route for the day. I should have been meeting Norman H. the evening before to finalise some hazy plans made at Easter for a couple of days expedition over Glen Licht. He did not turn up however. Now I needed an alternative, whilst keeping the Glen Licht option open for tomorrow maybe. NE to Bealach Na Sroine and Dornie via The Falls of Glomach seemed a reasonable alternative as a pipe opener, and to test a troublesome knee.
My folks think I should not be doing lone rough stuff now, but having got psyched up for it, I was not going to miss out now, chaperon or not.
So away at 7 am on a fine morning, fresh enough for gloves but not really cold. The hills still with white hats on from snow two days previously, looked grand. I opted to approach by the tarmac on the north side of Strath Croe, rather than by a well-signed track on the south side. Easy enough and then a left onto a forestry track, again well posted. Emerging from the gloom, the way ahead was well visible climbing steeply to the right. At first my thoughts were, "do I really want to do this?" for my road miles fitness, such as it was, did not seem much help in heaving the bike up and over what was not really a difficult track. Casting doubt aside I pushed on.
As I climbed, the huffing and puffing subsided, the views opened up and it became quite rewarding. Until now it had been largely in the shade of Meall Sguman, but now the sun was peeping over the ridge and painting its magic of light and shade on the path up to the summit of Bealach Na Sroine, not that it was much of a summit, more a plateau really. This far had taken about 2 hours and I grabbed a quick drink from my flask of coffee, thinking this was a dawdle. Stupid me, I never seem to learn.
The descent at first was easy and then the chasm containing the Falls became more and more apparent. The troublesome knee did not like downhill much and I began to wonder. A huge purposely erected sign then came into view, it spelt DANGER in big bold red letters, very steep slopes, and other dire warnings were printed underneath. Further on the alarm bells in my head really began to ring. At first I could see no possible way down, and then the faintest of paths could be seen, not dropping, but climbing slightly away from the chasm and then disappearing into what looked like a giant landslide.
Beyond the landslide and way below was a "whaleback" type ridge that dropped down to a juncture of streams. This was the obvious way and was as per the OS indication. At first the path was narrow and the slope considerable, it climbed generally. It was not to difficult, except where it crossed a few water courses that plunged it up and down. Behind, the falls were partly in view, but not spectacular and I was too pre-occupied to appreciate them fully. I guess you would need to see them close up from a lower position to do this.
Eventually the landslip area was reached, a tumble of rocks and trees, some fallen and dead, others fallen but still clinging to life, others growing naturally. Take a choice of possible routes through, the first most likely looking proved impossible. Retreat and start again, produced the same result. Try again, whilst getting desperate now.
More rock stumbling and then a large slab drop barred the way. I was not going to retreat again if I could help it though. Two cape straps joined and I lowered the bike down to a narrow ledge, spending time maneuvering it, so that it first leant into the rock, and then making room for myself to drop onto. The bike was perched precariously, and had it fallen outward, that would have been goodbye, for the angle down was seemingly near vertical. That was the trickiest bit, and it called for caution, it took some while here to cover only a short distance.
More rock scrambling followed and a few more dead ends, but after what seemed an eternity I got down to the more open "whaleback" area. It was still steep but easy by comparison, but then I snapped a rear brake cable applying too much pressure to hold the bike back. That did not help. It was easier again once the Alt na Ghiomach water course was reached, but by then I was well tired and it seemed a long way to the Faddock - Carnach track.
The descent had taken me nearly 3 hours; "some dawdle" that was. I have to say that someone younger and fitter would no doubt cut this considerably, I certainly would have a few years ago. Refueling and a rest did not revive me and I struggled up the slightest inclines whilst getting back to Domie. Yet more sustenance at the visitor centre here eventually did the trick and the few miles back to Morvich went quite well.
Back at the Motorhome, Norman H. was drinking tea with Molly, a day late having had a tough time crossing Glen Feshie earlier in the week. We swapped experiences and planned for tomorrow.
The troublesome knee had stood up well to the therapy, but my suspect navigation was again called into question, not that I got lost, but I really should have looked more closely at those near touching contour lines on that descent. But I would probably still have gone anyway.
My big disappointment was that I did not photograph the Danger sign at the head of Glomach Falls, If anyone should happen to go that way I would love a copy of any photo they might take of that sign with a bike against it. Somehow I don't think I shall be going back.