Back to the Lammermuirs
by Pat Lloyd
The campsite near Lauder was ideally placed for crossing the Lammermuir Hills by the old public road which went from Lauder to Haddington.
A right turn out of the site took us on a narrow lane following the Kelhope Burn up the valley for four miles to the turn off for Tollishill. A steep push up on a gravel road past the house brought us to the standing stone shown on one of the maps, this being by the wall where the farm track went behind the house. Not very big and if not shown on the map we would have taken it for a rubbing post for cattle. A gate across the track had a signpost with a blue marker and a notice informing us that yes, we were on a public right of way between Lauder and Haddington. We were most appreciative of these markers as I had carefully sorted out the maps and brought the two we would only need in parts and left the vital one on the table.
The track climbed steadily and with the help of a strong tail wind we were able to ride most of it. Various other tracks went off on either side but wherever we were in doubt the blue marker was there pointing us the correct way. The scenery was superb with rolling heather covered hills in all directions and although the flowers were starting to fade there was enough colour to make a show.
Lammer Law was the highest hill at just over 500m with the track passing to the east and at that point we could see the Hopes reservoir over to the right, partly hidden by the hills. In front was the whaleback hump of Traprain Law and beyond the sea and the prominent Bass Rock.
We had a marvellous freewheel dropping about 300m, nearly all rideable, to join tarmac at a gate with the Scottish Rights of Way Society sign pointing back the way we had come. It was now the lack of the correct map was felt but luckily I had John Brewer's book with me and we were able to navigate using one of his route maps.
We turned right at the large farm of Longyester and through lanes to join the B6355 to take a right turn at an ornate signpost. We were climbing again, now going along the back of the Lammermuirs. After a belated lunch stop and with the prospect of more hills ahead and possibly another thirty miles back against the wind, we wimped out and took the next left turn towards the Whiteadder reservoir.
We were now off John's map but a friendly BT man set us on the right road and once we reached Garvald we were with signposts for Gifford where several hotels provided food. We chose the Tweedale Hotel as it had one of the CTC cast iron badges up on the wall. After tea and biscuits and directions for the easiest way back we were soon enduring the A68 towards Lauder, not to recommended with the hometime traffic from Edinburgh. At least the wind was with us again and the twenty five windmills on Dun Law were going full whack. A long freewheel brought us back to the turn off at Carfraemill and the campsite.
We ended up cycling about forty five miles with seven of them off road. Thanks to John Brewer and his "Border Country Cycle Routes" we were never really lost. The OS maps were 66, 67 and 73.