Lake District - Bridleways at Their Best
by Malcolm Lomas and John Kemp
We were up in Buttermere celebrating Burns Night, staying in the Fell and Rock Climbing Club Hut, the clouds had risen above the high tops surrounding the Buttermere valley, leaving behind wisps of cloud hanging in the high corries. With no wind the surfaces of Buttermere, Crummock Water and Loweswater were mirror like, giving lots of photo opportunities.
Leaving tarmac, the bridleway goes along the western shore of Loweswater. Passing by Watergate Farm you enter Holme Wood, shortly after a stone building appears. It's a bothy owned and administered by the National Trust. The occupants allowed us to have a look round, wood burning stove, calor gas cooking and room to sleep six people approx. A magical spot. By this time the sun had risen giving superb views.
Back on tarmac at Waterend the road keeps on climbing, forking left to Lamplugh and Croasdale. We followed a bridleway to How Hall Farm and down to the shore of Ennerdale Water. Superb view up the valley, the northern slopes of Ennerdale plastered in snow and Pillar Rock standing proud.
Spots of rain in the air, we made a hasty retreat to find sustenance at Ennerdale Bridge during which it rained quite heavily. Soup and bread roll and pot of tea we were on our way, thankfully the rain had stopped.
We retraced our route back via Kirkland and Lamplugh, Just before Fang's Brow Farm a bridleway turns off right climbing over a high coll. At a junction of ways, one going off left to Iredale Place a finger post tells us it's 3.5 miles to Loweswater. Keeping straight ahead a superlative track contours the hillside high above Loweswater giving stunning views towards the Buttermere valley. An exhilarating descent drops us down to High Nook Farm. By the time we hit tarmac it's lighting up time for the last few miles back to Buttermere.
We both agree that's the best bit of off-road riding we have done for a long time. Anyone up in that area, it's a must do.
Back to our abode and shower before the Burns Night revelries.
Malcolm Lomas
(Cleckheaton, Yorkshire)
John Kemp
(Hadfield, Derbyshire)