Hammersmith BridgeWith a few days to spare, I thought I’d take the opportunity to do a ride that I’ve always wanted to do, which is follow the Thames from Westminster all the way to Oxford, trying to keep to the paths as I go and trying to keep off as many roads as I can. So I jumped on the train at 6:30 in the morning along with all the other commuters. Not a Telegraph, Times or FT newspaper in sight. Everyone transfixed on their phones watching YouTube and TikTok. As my fellow commuters stared at their phones, I looked out the window watching light drizzle hit the windows of the train thinking, what am I doing?
On arrival, the weather cheered up and my positivity started to shine, well more like a flicker. Out of the station, down towards Westminster Bridge, turn right onto the cycle route passing Albert Bridge, with the sun shining, cycle path all the way heading west with a nice stop at Hammersmith Bridge for tea.
Onto Richmond via Kew, then into Syon Park, passing historic pubs on the way like the 18th century pub The Dove. Pop in for a pint, and follow in the footsteps of Dylan Thomas and Ernest Hemingway who frequented the pub. After Brentford, sharp left into Syon Park. Syon was the site of Sion Abbey, which was founded in 1415. Very smart and seems to be holding up well. Lovely path to Richmond then cross over the bridge to the south side to pick up the cycle path again. Teddington Lock, here we come! Then onto Kingston through Canbury Gardens, then you’ve guessed it, cross over the bridge to rejoin the path again.
Then onto Hampton Court. Hard-packed gravel. I know it’s personal preference and obviously weight is key, but setting my tyres at 35 psi seems to give a good comfortable ride. Past the palace, stop for a quick pic, and again cross over the bridge (yes, another one) for the Thames Path. Then keep going all the way to Shepperton Lock. Nice ride with interesting views passing a lovely island café and bar on the way.
No bridge at Shepperton Bridge!! Damn, I forgot! I don’t want to go back now. The ferry? Do they take bikes? Yes they do, result! As it’s a long way back and around, well worth the £3.50. Ferry ride over saves a long detour. Cycle past Pharaoh Island heading west. The island was purchased by the Treasury to give to Admiral Nelson after the Battle of the Nile.
The Thames PathTime for a brew. I notice a nice little house for sale on the island opposite while drinking my tea. I looked it up and it’s on the market for £2 million! Oh well, I think about that one.This area of the Thames was used for quite a lot of films, etc., and the little bungalow was used in the film Hope and Glory. The guy operating the ferry said he had Ali G on board a couple of weeks back. So look out for that one, I think I’ll give it a miss!
On towards Staines, lovely weather, just right! Past Staines the bridge is shut, headed back and cut around industrial estate, back on the road. Cut back onto the path passing under the infamous M25 motorway, under a bridge this time, with the clattering of cars above.
Now this bit is a bit tricky. You sort of have to go to join the M25 on the slip road, then there’s a little spot in the bush on the left, easily missed. Pop in there and you’re back on the Thames Path heading to Windsor, passing via Runnymede as you go. Magna Carta and all that?
As you approach Windsor you cannot go under the bridge any-more due to antisocial behaviour. They have closed it. Who they are I don’t know, or the King has ordered it shut up? Keep the peasants out! So climb up and over the bridge again, heading towards Windsor on the road, into the town and the obligatory picture by the castle. Then back down the High Street, cross over the pedestrian bridge, turn left onto the Thames Path heading towards Maidenhead. Through the park this section is a lovely little ride. Many beautiful riverside properties pass you by.
All the locks on the Thames are meticulously well kept and watching the shenanigans of the boaters use the water to descend and elevate in the lock with different levels. Some successfully and some making a pig’s ear of it. All the same, seems like a nice way to travel.
Firmly closed bridgeOnwards to Taplow, then a stop overnight in Marlow. This part starts to get quite fragmented and there seems to be lots of styles and gates and very small tracks and fields, more of a footpath than a cycle path in most parts, slow going! And with the odd private sign thrown in for good measure. Although Taplow is a very expensive area, it’s got a very nice relaxed vibe to it. Again, beautiful houses on the banks of the Thames, onto Bourne End via paths and roads, stopping quite often to find my route, through Little Marlow and journey’s end for today, Marlow Bridge.I eat my toast and have my tea in the morning looking where I can join the Thames Path. The news is Temple Bridge is shut just past Marlow! Damn! Here we go again.
With full replacement work delayed until 2027 at the earliest, so not only are some of the bridges on the Thames deteriorating, so is the weather. I headed for a route via the roads as navigating the path is a nightmare at the best of times apparently, and it’s only around 9 miles to Henley, and it’s pissing down! Shouldn’t get too wet? Famous last words.
A little hilly north of Henley, climb into wet weather, 235 ft up and down. National speed limit roads, some pavements, sideways rain, upwards rain and lots of spray from other vehicles (lovely), oh and a head wind. Henley-on-Thames arrived. Wet and damp. I was going to Reading via the Thames paths, these are not going to be good in the wet, plus the constant stopping checking my route is a pain, even worse in the wet. I’m cutting a corner off my route and headed for Wallingford via quiet roads, keeping away from the Thames Path, as much of it from now on is hit and miss.
Wet roads, another 750 ft. It’s getting higher and wetter, nothing flat around here apart from a badger. Just missed it! A squirrel and a rare sight nowadays, a hedgehog. What a shame. Headed for Nettlebed, not much going on apart from head down and forwards. ......And upwards!
Occasionally hearing the distinctive sound of a bird of prey circling above, perhaps waiting for more roadkill. The sound I can hear is that of the red kite. Lovely and graceful. And it’s starting to brighten up.
Oxfordshire is one of the best places in the UK to see red kites thanks to a successful RSPB reintroduction programme in the 1990s. Into lovely Wallingford and the rain is starting to slow down to a very light drizzle. It’s around 10 or so miles now to Oxford depending on what way you go from Wallingford? I decided to go the more scenic route which is around about 17 miles, popped into Abingdon for a quick snack to keep my energy up.
Another 30 minutes or so I pass a lovely little riverside café at Andersey Island. Thought about stopping? But at this point wanted to press on.
From this point it is the most boring part of the two days, with straight dull main roads. After what seems like an eternity there’s a glimpse of hope on the horizon, a little blue sign of a bicycle displaying a new route. I’m around 4 miles out I think?
This becomes a lovely little path, some parts new, some parts well established, running parallel to the Thames heading towards Oxford. I see a small craft with everybody on board enjoying their lunch. Very civilised.
The path becomes more erratic and I can hear the noise of the city in front of me. I approach the suburban sprawl of Oxford. People on bikes seem to be everywhere, buzzing around the streets. Oxford is one of the UK's top cycling cities, apparently, ranking fourth nationally for bike commuters with nearly 5% of locals riding to work.
I slowly head for the station, passing the prison on my way. Seems very, very busy, or is it just because I’ve spent the last couple of days in one of the quietest, peaceful areas in the south with history around every corner?
If I was to do this again, I would take two or more days from the centre of London, carrying on to Windsor and then just stop when I reached Henley-on-Thames, as there’s so much to see.
So if you fancy playing bridge I think a 2 to 3 day timescale would be perfect.
A dry or summertime ride, due to the amount of attractions and history on offer, with a more leisurely, easy-going pace would make this journey a very interesting proposition. Or alternatively, find a tree with some shade in summer and watch the river craft navigate the beautiful locks that pepper the Thames.
Or find that pub! There are plenty.
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