South Korea
Since reading that the Korean government had built 1000kms of cycling roads, away from traffic and close to four major rivers in order to improve the health of the population, I thought 'that's the country for our next tour'. What infrastructure too, that is except for the ATM's. Rare were the ones, even marked GLOBAL that gave out local currency ! Two anxious days followed an excellent non-stop B.A. flight when we had to turn back from a ride into the mountains and load up with currency, thanks to a helpful bank manager. Finally we headed southwards along the East Sea coast, heavily barb wired ( too near North K.). Looking for early Sunday morning coffee, we came across a street festival included a rice harvest dance, a North Korea twirling big- skirted dance troupe (propaganda?), a 30 man Tug-o-War, comical historic dances and side stalls with food and health checks (Blood Pressure both 120/80, OK), a lovely day off. At a vintage gramophone display Anni and I Rock'n'Rolled, busked and were embarrassingly given small change. A few days later at Hahoe Village, guided there by a lovely Korean cyclist family that befriended us up in a road-side café! A living museum, two wonderful masked dances; they are proud that our Queen had visited the historical houses, still lived in.
Continuing through heavily deciduous wooded well-graded valley roads, traffic was fast moving but not heavy. Vehicles have priority over pedestrians and cyclists! What's new? It can get hairy. Old ladies crouched, backs bent tending to their plentiful crops- rice, burdock, greens. Leaves turning red and golden especially up at a ski resort. Large areas of cosmos and lotus flowers look so beautiful. Otters playing in a river, peering curiously at Anni. Marvellous.
Accommodation OK- hotels and motels, all en-suite, re-vitalising body scouring cloths, bicycles in room or reception areas. Even a beautiful temple when, at dusk, escorted by friendly Police. There, drums and chanting late at night and early in the morning, food healthy and small portions OK. Towards Busan,mostly Love Hotels. Ubiquitous under-floor heating so cozy (and dries the clothing). A Homestay- we saw how Koreans live.
Korea seems to do lots socially, well-used outdoor Gyms, board walks in the many parks. Health and safety tips on TV. All thin and friendly but quite untidy! Agricultural but huge cities. TV: news has China fishing boats being repelled at territory limits, N.Korea threats are daily news. Our Premier League football highlights.
After 10 days, from Andong we started the 385km. Nakdonggang River Cycle Path, away from traffic, relaxing and flat, an inspiring idea from the government. Lots of cyclists doing it in 150km days, travelling light, credit card touring. Top of range bicycles. Fully masked ( against sun ?). The Path is easy to follow, W.C.'s every 30mins.,good surface and fully signed. In Korean, the food menus are sometimes a struggle, dark at 6pm so a beer and 'surprise' menu food, spicy, cabbage, pork/chicken. Some lively nights, the first evening, managed to persuade the (inebriated) next table not to pay our bill. Applauded another time - '(old aged English) cyclists'.
Rode up the coast from Busan a couple of days to find lobster to eat and return there to take a ferry to Japan for the final two weeks. Left a vibrant, increasing economy for perhaps one past its peak (like UK?). Weather had been warm/cool, shorts and 2 layers plus Goretex mornings. Damp twice only.
Finally near Busan, we found some Rough-Stuff riding. Just when we think to have a relaxing day off sight-seeing in a city, the cycling hotel owner really wanted to cycle with us, so were driven over to his birth-place and rode narrow tracks between allotments and streams, over steep bridges without sides, through small villages and farms, historical interest sites. His old friends owned persimmon sheds, with firewood boilers supplying underfloor heating to upstairs living accommodation.
By the end of October, it was becoming cooler but Kyushu, Japan is more south, and consequently warmer. There were Autumn tints again. That and eating whale meat is another story. Korea had been a good destination for an October tour, enough of interest, easy cycling, good accommodation and civilised.
Steve and Anni Gregson,
Basildon.