Wow, its mid-March , so far no rain, one thin top sufficient so as we await our visa for Oman at the Musandam border, we reflect on the first few days after arriving in Dubai for a month's tour of the Emirates and Oman. The accommodation had been excellent, 3 stars and the food gave us no stomach problems, lots of fresh fish.
On the down-side we had not found any quiet roads nor rough-stuff, in
fact the roads were mostly highways but we felt safe on the noisy hard shoulders. The odd cycle path in Dubai and Ras-Al-Khaimah had given us some respite. Earlier, we had been stopped in R.A.K by a jobsworth who said it was actually a promenade and where did we come from? - 'England, Blackburn, Rovers' and then his eyes lit up and he wished us a good journey.
Into Oman and the coast road initially quite flat and quiet as it wound in and out of the brilliant coloured bays towards the Musandam Peninsula on the Straits of Hormuz but with a couple of final short sharp hills to test us. To our right, the high rocky Rus al Jibal mountains with spectacular cliffs. The original Khasab Hotel had been updated and nearby a local restaurant served mutton curry, prawn and rice, salads, 2 juices. The owner was keen to please and went out to find and give us an ice-cream. There is a spectacular unmade road over the mountains that exits into Sharjah Emirate far to the south but in 2015 no exit permission for non-Arabs. We had to make do with a dhow trip around Telegraph Island where the term 'round the bend ' originated. Back then on the same beautiful road, 57 miles to Ras-A-K and the strong tail wind enjoyed on our way in had thankfully subsided. In the afternoon there was time to relax on the beach before 2 Happy-Hour beers and spare ribs on the Hilton roof-top.
The road to Khatt became quieter and camels were in evidence in the desert. On the way, police had waived us down to make sure we had had no problems. They, like the friendly border staff were keen to take our photographs, it seemed cycle tourists were a rarity. The Indian / Pakistani staff of the modern hotel on the hill played high-standard cricket after work. Finally, some Rough-Stuff, as opposite the hotel a steep track headed off eastwards towards Oman. Lots of long, deep ravines, grey rocks and mountainous territory broken up by the odd spiky bush. Long water lines by the road leading to distant farms. In the few hour ride , only a few farm vehicles pass me by.
Headwind! The road to Dibba rose to 980 ft. then descended to a beach motel where a Bollywood movie was being filmed, the glamorous starlet just wanted photos taken with Anni. Perhaps she knew Blackburn! Again, a very tasty complete fish for dinner after a beer from around the back of the hotel where, as in many places, a container sold alcohol at reasonable prices. Never a problem to find a beer on this Gulf States tour ,but difficulty finding postcards to send home. A day off at Dibba where in the afternoon, a tremendous wind blew up the sea.
On the way to Fujairah, the UAE's oldest mosque sited in a green oasis attracted many visitors. The Lebanese hotel manager was expecting his usual Friday 'table' of local dignitaries and plied us with tasty delicacies. As we had already eaten, we could not do them justice! Liwa was across the Oman border but again it needed only 30 minutes to cross, the immigration officers try to help us by stopping cars to ask the drivers about hotels on the Oman side. They give us water in return for 'selfies' with us! Down the flat service road to avoid heavy highway traffic, a girl outside a student hostel telephoned her cousin who arrived from miles away to travel on ahead and find a hotel. Everyone is so helpful here. An empty beach was a walk from the beach between a Brazilian iron-ore plant and a fishing fleet whose boats are dragged zig-zaggedly into the sea.
By now Anni's birthday was approaching and there was a 4-star hotel across the border in Hatta so we headed north and inland again steadily climbing, spotting bee-eaters on the telegraph poles. Another border crossing, certainly more speedy for us than the Indian-Continent heavy truck drivers busily cooking on their drop down kitchens, under their loads whilst awaiting papers. An interesting hotel in no-man's land was stored in our memory for another time. The Hatta Fort Hotel was situated in attractive grounds with swimming pools, flowers and trees. The manager was so surprised/ shocked to see old folks arriving under our own steam he gave us a 'special ' discount so we stayed 2 birthday nights in luxury.
Leaving on March 18th, it may have rained overnight and the distant mountains were a different shade of grey. A dawn chorus. A pick-up stopped ahead and a cyclist jumped out and rode away up a new road. Another border for a short length of Oman but border control definitely relaxed, in fact seeing a motel from across the border, it was a quick about turn to sneak back across it just after a Fagan and Whalley (of Blackburn) trailer. There remained just 54 miles back into Dubai, generaly descending with large desert dunes on both sides. 2 racing cyclists seen out training behind a pick-up, otherwise only camels to distract us as we headed back for a few days to take in the sights of the city and learn what tempted so many tourists there.
It had been a good winter tour, excellent weather 25-30C, no rain, flattish territory, good tarmac, friendly folks and no tummy upsets. Would we return? Yes, in winter, and perhaps flying to Salala in the south of Oman heading back to Dubai. A cheap tent would increase the Rough-Stuff possibilities. Steve Gregson, Ribble Valley, Lancashire..