Japan Tour 1997
by Steve and Ann Gregson
Journal of our first Japanese tour in 1997.
Went to Japan as, after many years of disinterest as a touring destination due to negative impressions historically and politically, we befriended a Japanese family working in UK. Thus we realised that Japan had a similar climate (cold in the North and warm in the South), were an island race with centuries of Royal families and an industrial heritage similar to ours. Perhaps the character was like ours? We flew there in 1997 with our bikes for 3 weeks to find out.
To avoid Tokyo and its environments the Sunflower ferry (13000 tons and speed 49 km/hr) took us overnight to Kochi on Shikoku. Our philosophy was that riding back towards Tokyo, if we had the sea on our right then we were not lost and so the difficulty of map-reading would not slow us down. On Shikoku there is a 88 temple pilgrimage route that is an added interest.
June 1: As it was the quiet season, tickets could be bought at the terminal in Tokyo, bikes put in bags to minimise costs. Bags can be home-made from light material and should be big enough for the bike with pedals and wheels removed, bars turned sideways and saddle pushed down. The point is to protect other people`s luggage, to minimise space taken and to do all the carrying without help of the Transport Companies` personnel. Thus the bags are obligatory for trains and a £10 or so saving on ferries. We put them in our 4-berth cabin. Young people spoke to us on the ferry. The `Onsen` down below was an interesting experience. On the boat food and drink was available but expensive.
June 2: Built up bikes off the ship and rode the few miles into Kochi centre passing children 3 abreast on the cycle tracks going in both directions Kami-kazi indeed. Here our Japanese friend had reserved a western-style hotel for our first night. Evidently it is usual to book accommodation ahead, the people who run them think that clients finding rooms on spec would think the hotel not of good quality. To avoid that hosts do not have a poor impression of guests, it may be advantageous to have a letter saying that as a cyclist it is not possible to know how far one will be able to ride in a day therefore not able to book in advance. The letter should also include a paragraph saying that you are used to Japanese shoe etiquette (removing outdoor shoes, use of slippers, use of socks only in special rooms etc) It is advisable to learn these customs before one travels to Japan. A lively meal was had at a nearby Ryokan, these are good places to eat as they are lively with friendly clients and not expensive. After work the Japanese, like the British, like to relax with a few drinks. There seemed never to be any aggression and every evening we would be approached and engaged in conversation. The bikes were put safely behind the reception counter in the hotel.
June 3: To Muroto Point. Starting in Kochi we noted some shopping streets were completely roofed over which was handy as there was drizzle early morning. Most of the day was spent on a cycle path away from the main road, along the backs of houses and through allotments. Where we were on roads we were well respected by the drivers as was the case all through Japan, even where we were holding up a line of traffic. Higashi Youth Hostel was almost empty so my wife and I had a spacious room to ourselves. It was a spotless traditional tatami matted room where the mattress was taken from a cupboard and laid on the floor as our bed. In the corner a low table was used as a tea table with ourselves cross legged, Japanese style on the floor. This position is not easy to stay in for western legs! The cost was 8499 yen for 2, dinner, bed and breakfast - good value. The evening meal consisted of soup, tea, raw tuna, rice, stew, fish tempura, vegetables, sauces. It was possible to buy a beer to have with the meal which was taken in a communal dining room, so it was possible to have contact with the other (young ) visitors who were Japanese and travelling by motor bike. The breakfast was a smaller version of the dinner and far too rich for our pallets early in the morning and as Minshukus were to have similar fare we generally declined breakfasts and just had a coffee, finding some bread in the first mile or two. 55 miles.
June 4: To Hiwaso. After watching a writer in the temple at the Youth Hostel, one of 88 temples which have a pilgrimage around Shikoku, the coast roads were quiet and detoured around tunnels and through villages. It rained heavily from 3 to 5pm so we arrived drenched at a closed Kokominushuku but 2 youngsters helpfully showed us a small Ryokan nearby. We ate fish and the owners were friendly and sympathetic to our wetness. The town was quiet after our evening meal of fish. We brought our bicycles into the porch. 53 miles and 1510 metres of ascent.
June 5: To Kainen City. Socks and shoes still a bit damp. Off on a winding narrow lane with views of seascapes and rice farms. Old people bent double in the fields contrasting with heavy industry . The tunnels generally have a raised sidewalk otherwise one could cycle around them on the old road. The Paschenko parlours were something else, places of fantasy like we do not have in UK. Solitary players inside. 20 minutes to strip 2 bicycles down to basics and into the bag for transport on the ferry for a 1hr 55 minutes crossing to Wakayama. At Kainen City a helpful family spend a long time to find us a Minshuku inhabited by workers from a nearby factory. Peaceful enough. We had a walk to a Karaoke bar. Spotted 3 track riders out on the roads. 41 miles. Hot and sunny.
June 6: To Tannabe. Busy route 42 but traffic generally polite and there were some diversions around tunnels. Found a sea-front business hotel and ate in a seafood restaurant where friendly Osaka business men told us about their week-ends sea angling. When using the cycle tracks adjoining main roads, it is difficult to make good progress due to crossing house entrances where the track dips and rises suddenly, crossing from one side of road to the other and many obstructions. If this is the future in UK, we must fight for our right to cycle on the roads. 61 miles. 1650 feet of ascent. Rain in pm.
June 7: To Yunomine. Breakfast in Tannabe, mango juice, coffee and toast. After 5 miles on route 311, take an unmarked road as by now we have got large scale maps with road numbers. Much less traffic. Lovely scenery, clean rest areas. In Yunomine, stay at an Onsen Minshuku and join in the wooden clogged and Yukata dressed groups walking the main street to an Onsen and after dark to see the fireflies. They were the `night-life`. In the sulphur smelling outdoor Onsens, eggs are boiled. During the day saw a belt driven utility bicycle. So far only seen 3 Kierin riders and one cycle-tourist, a lone girl from London. 40 miles, 1900 ft of ascent. Warm and sunny, no wind.
June 8: To Owasi seeing ladies doing road cleaning chores and again use the 1:100000 map to find quiet and beautiful back roads, all immaculately surfaced. Large scale maps are a must. Some steep inclines but 32 x 26 OK. No cafes but small shops to buy biscuits and ice-cream. One shop owner cycled to find us oranges. Find good little Minshuku on harbour front, too late for dinner but eat sate and rice nearby. 2 long tunnels during the day, need a back light on the raised side track. 63 miles. 2870 Ft ascent. Warm and sunny. No wind.