Travels in Azerbaijan
by Steve and Ann Gregson
(Mellor, Lancashire)
When we heard that oil executives were saying that Azerbaijan was the hidden secret gem of the "exploration" world and that some of them had formed a local cycling club, it was not long before we had investigated flights and a couple of tempting routes within the country.
During the 2 weeks there in late spring, one vest and a medium-weight long-sleeve top with long bottoms were appropriate both for the weather and socially. We had generally sunny, warm weather except for one day of rain showers. Evenings were cool and a small heater was provided in hotel rooms.
Azerbaijan Airlines have an uncrowded and good value direct flight to the capital Baku, three times a week and the following notes detail our cycling there. Beware the airport Arrivals Exchange Bureau where we were short-changed. There are plenty of places for money changing at better rates in town, 7 days a week.
Saturday April 30th. Had a walk around the Old City visiting the unique Miniature Books Museum, the historical Shirvanshah's Palace and on to the Caspian Sea Boulevard to join large crowds enjoying a stroll through its gardens. A bus ride took us to the Baku velodrome. An evening meal in a historic Caravanserai restaurant gave us a feel of the old days.
Sunday May 1st. Got a lift with the bikes up to Qandov, by the Caspian Sea where we started our riding, into the Caucasus foothills. The road was slightly rising all day through avenues of trees amidst flowery meadows. The snow-covered mountains were to be seen to the west. Traffic was light and respectful, this was to be the pattern until we returned to the main M2 Baku road at the end of the trip.
In Quba, it was not easy to find airy accommodation, but a few miles west of the town the Quba Hotel, consisting of two storey pine chalets, filled the bill. Shower/ WC en-suite and heating was a single element electric heater. We ate outdoors. Barbequed lamb, tomatoes, bread, chai, potatoes, onions with beer cost us £6 on top of the £23 double room.
Monday, 2nd May. Decided to stay another night as the area had lovely mountain scenery amidst local wooded foothills. The breakfast turned out to be typical for the rest of the tour i.e. boiled eggs, bread, tea, jam, and cheese. We headed up the tree-lined valley on an asphalt road to the nice old village of Qachrash where quaint wooden houses had enclosed balconies.
After 10 miles, the asphalt stopped and the earth road plunged down a short incline into a valley, where Baku cyclists say there is a lot of off-road cycling through the tree-lined valley and onwards through the Caucasus Mountains. We had a dog chase us on the way up but acceleration and loud shouting stopped the dog at the extent of its territory. No real problem. My wife had brought panniers, filled with newspapers, to ward off aggressive dogs but we managed always to outspeed them. In Krasnaya Sloboda, adjoining Quba, the youngsters seemed too fond of imitation plastic guns for our liking.
Tuesday, 3rd May. Awoke to drizzle after some heavier rain overnight. The dirty asphalt road descended gently through open fields and trees to Xudat by which time it had dried up. Although there was a lack of signposts, passers-by showed us the way. The bird-life started to be quite colourful with hoopoes and rollers quite common. When we stopped for a sandwich on a bench by a small farm, the old farmer came out with a bouquet of purple lilac for my wife. Most houses have a small lilac tree immediately outside the front door. As we arrived at Nabran, the rain started again in earnest and all the hotels and lodgings seemed to be closed. Where to find somewhere?
A policeman indicated that a couple of places were open and the Hotel Lotus was the first we came to so booked ourselves in. The friendly manager soon came with a heater to dry our wet clothes and we had a beer before dinner, which was again succulent lamb. An evening walk up the village street to buy an after-dinner treat left us ready for another early night. The neat, wooden chalet was located in pretty woodland just behind the black sand beach where cattle also grazed.
Wednesday, 4th May. Being so close to the Russian border, it was tempting to get as far as we could to check it out. The coast road north had been swept into the sea in places but with the Caspian to our right and forest to our left, it was an enjoyable ride until turning inland to meet the railway that lead into the Russia. There was no traffic to speak of.
By the level crossing in Yalama, a narrowing track turned following the railway until the border where the Customs, military and emigration officials were all courteous and easily laughed with us at our amateurish attempts to get as close as possible to Russia. The track bordered old cemeteries and crossed flowered grassland and orchards. At the level crossing, the railway worker had not been keen to let us take a photo up the line and sent a man into the nearby shop to try and check us out. The shopkeeper said not to worry, he was crazy. However back in Nabran, we had an uneasy hour's interview with the police, KGB and Army. We were glad to be on our way after an hour or so.
Thursday, 5th May. Back on the flat coast road until turning inland, passing Xudat again and saying Hello to the farmer showing him the flowers, still healthy on the pannier rack. At Xachmaz, asked the way to the centre and hotels at the roundabout but here we had our nearest "near miss" with decent accommodation. Our guide book had said the Soviet style hotel had a couple of updated suites but we struggled to be shown them so I set off to find something better. Some lads outside an Internet shop explained there was a new motel by a petrol station on the outskirts, so then began around 6 passes of the roundabout to loud, friendly cheers from the assembled taxi and bus drivers. The historical town-centre museum was without electricity but a pleasant courtyard was full with old men playing board games.
Friday, 6th May. Down the flat main road to Davachi where in the President's park, we were entertained by a man giving us an impromptu dance with very short, unusual footsteps. These were accentuated by the typical long-toed shoes. The teashop owner would not accept anything for the chai we drank. "Friends" he explained. From there a route climbed through rounded foothills, 12 miles towards Chirax Castle. Although starting as asphalt, with cattle roaming across, the final very steep miles were earth but smooth and no problem on one side but extremely rutted on the other. The hills were by now bereft of trees.
At the Holiday Centre, builders were working hard to increase the small bungalows from 3 to 4, so once again we had found a place with en-suite bathrooms albeit on this occasion the W.C. flushing was a bit of a mystery. The placing of the dinner table in the middle of a grassy area with the Caspian in front and the Castle behind on a cliff made up for any inconvenience as we ate our usual lamb to accompany the good local beer. From the accommodation we took a steeper and rougher track through a sanatorium to check out a Soviet style hotel with magnificent views in all directions.
Saturday, 7th May. A back route, also unmade, took us straight to Siyazan via a mountain valley where there many soaring vultures and lammergeyers. These were congregated above oil fields complete with "nodding donkeys". It was quite a spectacular and unique sight. It was our intention to find a hotel on the way back to Baku, but as it turned out, we could not find one so rode the whole flattish 78 miles back to the capital, traffic was not too heavy. Suffering a deflation on the way, a handy customs post provided some shade to change the inner tube and we were invited inside to have a cup of chai and a chat about our unusual way of travelling. The Azerbaijanis do not have a concept of cycle touring for pleasure.
8th, 9th, 10th May. Excursions out to mud-volcanoes, to Baku velodrome with lots of old track bikes, to cemeteries and botanical gardens. In Baku, celebrations of the ending of WW2 brought out old soldiers with their medals. Rode the clean Metro. On the capital's Caspian Sea Boulevard, lots of dancing, singing, arts and crafts, to celebrate the president's birthday.
11th May. A good flight back over Georgia's spectacular snow topped mountains. Food for future thought there. However, an Azerbaijan Caspian Mountains tour would also be warmer if taken later in May or June otherwise later in the year, September.