To-day was different, but I couldn’t put my finger on it until Gordon Campbell led Allan McGibbon and myself above the river Ayr on the Mauchline road. That was it! Our wheels were turning east, away from the Galloway highlands and Carrick forests and coastlines for the first time since a Wanlockhead week end several months ago. We strode through a surreal landscape of black trees, autumn tints and mist, low and cool. Provisions bulged out of our saddlebags after we invaded sleeping Sorn village. Muirkirk was gained across bleak Airds Moss where trees are scarce and moss prevails