“Oh, that’s a very sad story and I can’t tell you much about it. Go there yourself, be one with the earth, the stone and the water. Smell the salt air and you’ll smell history, touch the ruins and you’ll touch the ages, row the curragh* and be one with the very elements from which it all started and to which it all returns” Old Sean’s words repeated them selves time and again. Fate had put them into my ears when I met this remarkable man at Caherbullig. Cycling towards Slea Head I left my bike near Kildurrihg at the foot of Mount Eagle.