We stood on the far bank, pulling ice off our clothes. Our trousers were solid, but for creases at our knees. Now we felt the cold. Setting off, we found that our wheels wouldn’t turn. Pushing the cycles, we continued to wards the ruin by the Geldie Burn, our shelter for the night. Ben unloaded our cycles as I climbed up onto rafters looking for a clean sleeping place. Only the far end of the building still has floor boards, so I climbed over to the remaining floor, Ben passed up the panniers as I stacked them. He joined me as I attempted to unpack. The zips were frozen, as were the cords. Using matches we opened one pocket with candles in....