The Doethi and the Devils

by Steve Griffith

The chance of a few days in mid-Wales was too good to pass over, so what if it was February? The plan was train to Aberystwyth and then a couple of nights at Blaencaron and Tyncornel hostels. Yes I know the handbook says they are closed, but you can actually stay all year.

After de-training at Aberystwyth (warning this train only really has space for 1 1/2 bikes!!) we made a swift passage to Blaencaron, receiving a traditional welcome from the farmer's wife warden. Then it was on to Tyncornel. It never ceases to amaze me the number of people who really love and care about these hostels. I noticed this time someone had taken the trouble to research the families who used to live here.

A leisurely day was spent visiting Roman Road Cycles in Farmers (GR650449) - in truth a chicken shed fitted with bike bits, admittedly interesting ones, i.e. trikes and hub gears. Apart from the rough-stuff on the approach to the hostel, we took the forestry to bring us out on the apex of the Llanddewi Brefi-Farmers road (GR685517). A very useful short-cut, although it does involve getting over two locked gates.

Alec elected for an easy ride back to Blaencaron; I decided upon a longer route down the Doethi over to Llanwrtyd Wells, and then up to the Devil's Staircase with a visit to Dolgoch Y.H. for tea, and finally to Blaencaron.

A superb cloudless sky - is this really February? Maybe the effects of global warming are manifesting themselves. I cycled down to the Doethi, over the narrow footbridge and up the steep hill about 100 yards, then right and onto the start of the Doethi track (GR757533). I could imagine the ferns being a problem on the first part of this route at other times of the year. Conditions were somewhat slippery, but on a day like this what did that matter? The farm at Blaendoethi remains in view for ages.

This really is a completely unspoilt valley I mused, not a conifer in sight. Apart from a couple of wet patches around the junctions of streams, the going was easy and I was able to ride about half this route. Emerging on tarmac I noted only 2 hours had elapsed since leaving the hostel. I would rate this as scenically the top track in the Elenith, and certainly one to linger over.

A swift ride to Llanwrtyd Wells and a pub lunch before following the Irfon up. A quick rest and then by some supreme effort up and over the Devil's Staircase. The track to Dolgoch had clearly had some money spent on it so it was a quick look round the deserted hostel before tackling the seemingly endless hills to Tregaron.

Back at Blaencaron just as night was falling, we had the hostel to ourselves - and very cosy it was too! Some may scoff at the mod-cons, e.g. storage heaters, but I appreciated them. Next day it was a very wet ride back to Aberystwyth.

What's the most difficult part of the trip? I would say without doubt trying to fit two bikes on the Aberystwyth express train.

Maps used: OS 146 and 147
 

First published the RSF Journal in 2001