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Land's End - John O'Groats off road routeby James Spencer and David Broddle A ride of 1,201 miles, ascending over 130,000 feet and enjoying along the way the delights of: The Camel Trail, Bodmin Moor, The Tarka Trail, Exmoor, Dunkery Beacon, The Quantocks, Cheddar Gorge, The Mendips, Avon Gorge, The Black Mountains, Radnor Forest, Wenlock Edge, Ironbridge, The Way for the Millennium, Tissington Trail, Cut Gate, The Pennine Bridleway, Leeds-Liverpool Canal, Cam High Road, Lady Anne Clifford's Highway, The Maiden Way, Craik Forest, Black Law, The Trossachs, The West Highland Way, The Great Glen, Gleann Mor and the wilds of Northern Scotland… Day 1 - Land's End to Truro A varied day of sometimes complex navigation whilst enjoying some fine Cornish tracks. Plenty of accommodation etc in Truro.
Day 2 - Truro to Launceston Starts off with a high tarmac content but made up for by the Camel Trail and then the assault on Bodmin Moor. Leave Truro following NCR 32 via some quiet and pretty MRs, crossing the A30 via the BW at Tolgroggan to Zelah. Take MR via St. Newlyn East and Benny Mill past the steam railway to White Cross. More MR via Quoit and Providence to the B3274 at 975618. Go straight on along the track to the MR to Tremorebridge. Then MR to Brocton (past a collection of military vehicles in a garden!) where you join the Camel Trail in the direction of Bodmin. There is a good tea garden on the Trail at Boscarne. Ignore the fork to Bodmin and continue along the Camel through the wooded valley to Tresarrett. Here rejoin the tar (NCR 3) via Blisland back to the A30 at 136736. Cross the A30 and follow MR via Temple (to avoid A30) then join the A30 (over fence!) and follow (hopefully with a good tailwind) to Jamaica Inn. Take the MR towards Codda and then pick up the BW across Bodmin Moor which starts off well defined, crosses a good ford and then disappears when you get to the Moor proper. It is recommended to use a GPS ("goto") or compass and head for Black Rock and then the end of the BW at 205817. This is all rideable; there is just a lack of a defined track. Care is needed to pick the correct exit from the moor and avoid straying into walled fields. Follow MR via Tresmeake and the Rising Sun pub to Launceston. Day 3 - Launceston to Fremington (Barnstaple) The longest day of week one but not too taxing as much of the ride is on the Tarka Trail with a sweeping long descent down to the sea and a finish by the beach. Dinner in Instow is highly recommended.
Day 4 - Fremington (Barnstaple) to Blue Anchor A massive day incorporating the full crossing of Exmoor. An easy start on the Tarka Trail, some great Devon coombes and two fantastic descents at the end of the day. Take the Tarka Trail to Barnstaple and then follow NCR 3 on its traffic-free route through the town and then on MR to Goodleigh. At Goodleigh Cross pick up the challenging RUPP going E to Stoke Rivers, then the BW heading N to join the MR into Bratton Fleming. Take the MR NE, cross the A399 at Four Way Cross and then join the BW at Northland Corner (SS672392). This BW is tricky both from a riding and navigation viewpoint but should take you past the farm at Buscombe and onto the MR at SS687395. Turn L then R into Challacombe (good lunch at the pub!). Take the BW from SS692406 which climbs steadily and eventually turn L to cross the B3358 and follow the BW to Wood Barrow. Before the barrow turn R and follow the path past Pinkery Pond and Exe Head to the B3223 at SS768411. Proceed via Simonsbath to the BW at Clovenrocks Bridge to Warren Farm. From here follow the BW across Elsworthy to the MR at SS824415 which you follow NE to the BW SE across Almsworthy Common to Hillhead Cross. Follow the MR NE to join the BW to Dunkery Beacon. Descend the fast but technical BW from the Beacon to Wooton Courtenay and at SS947433 turn L and climb on the BW into the woods. When you reach the ridge turn R and follow the track down through the trees into Dunster. Follow the A39 to Carhampton and then the B319 to Blue Anchor. Day 5 - Blue Anchor to Barrow Gurney Combines the superb, if short Quantocks with the flat of the Somerset Levels and some surprisingly good terrain from Cheddar across the Mendips. Take the coast road from Blue Anchor to Watchet and then the MR to West Quantoxhead where you pick up the BW at ST113414 that takes you up on to the ridge of the Quantocks. Follow the ridge along via Crowcombe Park Gate to descend past Quantock Farm on the BW through Great Wood to Pepperhill Farm then MR to join the white road at ST194374 to the MR at ST214374. From here follow the MR into Bridgewater, cross the river and leave town on the A39. Cross the M5 and turn R in Horsey on the MR to Bawdrip. In Bawdrip take the old railway NE to Cossington and then follow MR across Chilton Moor to the BW at ST388455. In the village of Mark take the B3139 to Blackford and then the BW to Middle Stoughton. Follow MR and the B3151 to Cheddar. At ST458542 take the BW N to Ashridge Farm and then the BW over Black Down to Link. Go R on the A368 and then L on the BW to the A38. Cross the A38 and follow MR through Wrington to the BW at ST475631. This BW takes you past Bristol Airport and through The Batch to the MR at ST499677 on Backwell Hill. Follow the BW via Barrow Hill to Barrow Gurney. Day 6 - Barrow Gurney to Abergavenny Easy going around Bristol into Wales, some Welsh hills and a pleasant towpath run into Abergavenny.
Day 7 - Abergavenny to Forest Inn A tough day with huge climbs and wild Welsh moorland. Pray it doesn't rain! Take the A40 W out of town and turn R on MR at SO267155 which becomes a white road. At SO256173 turn R to take the track through the forest and then join the BW that skirts the western slopes of the Sugar Loaf before taking the BW left past Cwm-bwch to the MR at Dyffryn and then MR/BW N to Nantybedd (SO257269). At the car park at SO253285 take the BW NW to Grwyne Fawr Reservoir and then ascend to the summit at 690m (highest point on the ride)before descending on the BW (turn R on the descent at SO198332, easily missed!) and grassy downhill to the MR at SO189348. At the crossroads at SO182347 turn R and take the white road and then MR through Velindre to Little Lodge and then white road/MR to Glasbury. Follow the A438 to Llowes and then the BW N to the MR at SO194428. Follow the MR to Painscastle and then MR NW to BW at SO144490. This BW takes you past Doctor's Pool and Mawn Pools, over Glascwm Hill to the MR at SO166534 and straight across on the BW to Cwm Kesty. Take the RUPP and BW to the A44 and Forest Inn (or the Red Lion at Forest Inn). Day 8 - Forest Inn to Much Wenlock A long day with lots of hills, getting easier towards the end with the interesting crossing of Wenlock Edge and the descent into Much Wenlock. Leaving Forest Inn take the A44 E to the RUPP on the L at SO193591. Follow this RUPP to SO165637 where you take a R on the BW to the forest and then N on the BW to SO173673. From here take the RUPP to the A488 at SO184680. At Fishpools take the RUPP to Bleddfa and then the A488 again to Monaughty where you take the RUPP to SO251702. Follow the MR to Knighton. Out of Knighton take the BW from Paupunton to SO275749 and then the BW and RUPP E past Vron and Great Hagley to Hopton Woods. Follow the trails through the woods and out to Hopton Castle. Take the MR NW via Three Ashes to Clungunford and the Roman Road to Craven Arms, and then take the MR NW to Moonwood and the BW through Wolverton Wood to SO483879. Follow the MR NW through Middlehope and then the BW to Lilywood. Then follow the BW/Jack Mytton Way along Wenlock Edge, skirt the quarry and descend into Much Wenlock. Day 9 - Much Wenlock to Fenny Bentley A very long day in terms of mileage but on relatively easy terrain with some lengthy waymarked routes. A little too much tar but that's inevitable as we cross to the start of the Pennines.
Day 10 - Fenny Bentley to Dunford Bridge A gentle beginning to the day along the Tissington Trail followed by climbs in the White Peak and finally the cruel Cut Gate into Yorkshire. From Fenny Bentley village follow the A515 N for a short while to rejoin the Tissington Trail at SK173512. Follow this old railway all the way to its conclusion after Street House Farm at SK110673. Take the track N to the A515, then R and L to pick up the Midshires Way. Follow this track to the MR where you go straight across and then take a L to follow the track down to the A6 at SK 129715. Follow MRs to the track downhill from SK133718 into Millers Dale. Take the track N out of Millers Dale (café) to join the MR near Monksdale House, then follow this road through Tideswell to the A623 at Lane Head. Cross onto the B6049 heading NE and then take the MRs via Great Hucklow and Hucklow Edge to Abney where you go R and join the BW over Shatton Moor and on to Offerton Hall. From here double back L along the track to Shatton village and the A6187 at SK203826. Cross the A road and the garden centre car park (café!), skirt the football field and pick up the old railway at SK201830 to the Ladybower Reservoir dam. Cross the top of the dam and follow the cycle path round the E side of the reservoir to pick up the BW N on the E end of Ashopton Viaduct. Follow this BW all the way past Ladybower, Derwent and Howden reservoirs to Slippery Stones and the start of the classic Cut Gate route at SK170954 (don't miss the turn!). After the tough, technical crossing of Cut Gate descend to the bridge at SE198006. Follow the BW through the forest, taking care at the crossroads at SE198010 where you go straight across (not right) and on to cross the A628 at SE197014 near the Flouch roundabout. Take the short BW through the woods and turn L along the old road and R at the houses at SE192015 along the BW to join the Trans Pennine Trail going W to Dunford Bridge (there is an interesting singletrack diversion on the right a few hundred metres after joining the railway that rejoins the railway a little further on). At Dunford Bridge try the Stanhope Arms for refreshment and accommodation. Day 11- Dunford Bridge to Hebden Bridge A hard day in the South Pennines; lots of gritstone climbs and descents with a welcome canalside run in to Hebden Bridge. From the old railway bridge take the track that climbs the front of the dam wall (from R to L) and then head across the top of Winscar dam and follow the MR from the car park up the hill to the BW L at SE151039. Follow the BW through the old quarry to the MR at SE145043, turn L and then take the gated track down through the woods on the concessionary path/track and take a L at SE136054 and L again at the crossroads of tracks. Go straight across the MR and follow the track with rocky downhill that eventually takes you past Yateholme Reservoir to join the A6024 Holme Moss road at SE102053. Turn R and then take the 2nd L in Holme village to cross Digley Reservoir dam and then climb on the MR to the BW that ascends Bradshaw to join the A635 Saddleworth road. Turn L (W) up the A635 and then R at the summit on Wessenden Head (tea caravan). Then follow the BW/Pennine Way descent to Marsden, then MR to Standedge at SE019095. Here pick up the Pennine Bridleway (a new national trail, see www.thepenninebridleway.co.uk) and follow it past Castleshaw, Readycon Dean and Ogden reservoirs, up the stiff climb from Ogden Reservoir and then under the M62 viaduct at SD947139. Take the MR past Hollingworth Lake and then proceed to the Rochdale Canal at Littleborough. Follow the towpath N via Todmorden to Hebden Bridge - alternatively, at Warland follow the Mary Towneley Loop (part of the Pennine Bridleway) via Mankinholes to Hebden Bridge. Day 12 - Hebden Bridge to Austwick Leaving the South Pennines, a taste of Lancashire before the Leeds Liverpool Canal lands you in the Yorkshire Dales proper for a feast of limestone climbs and descents.
Day 13 - Austwick to Appleby in Westmoreland A hard day with tough Dales climbing and boggy, rutted moorland tracks leading you out of Yorkshire into the ancient county of Westmoreland. Take the walled BW from Austwick to Wharfe and then the BW over the hill via Crummock and Sulber to the B6479 at Selside. Follow the B road N to the T junction near Ribblehead Viaduct and turn R (tea van). At SD785803 follow the Dales Way (BW) up Cam Fell, rejoining the Pennine Way. Turn L at SD830834 and skirt Dodd Fell to your R and follow the (very rocky!) track down to the B6255 at SD860895. Cross the road and take the BW to Thorney Mire House and then pick up the A684 at Appersett - there is a worthwhile diversion here to the café in Hardraw. Leave the A684 at SD839923 and follow the very steep grass climb on the BW up to Cotter End. This is Lady Anne Clifford's highway again. Follow this rutted and boggy track all the way to the B6259 at NY783004. Follow the B road N and after passing Pendragon Castle turn L onto the MR and then R along the BW which follows the River Eden N via Wharton Hall to join the A685 into Kirkby Stephen. From here follow MRs to Appleby. Day 14 - Appleby in Westmoreland to Longtown A Roman road and the Maiden Way take us eventually across Hadrian's Wall and within a stone's throw of Scotland. From the centre of Appleby take the B6542 NW, pass under the railway and then take the BW that follows the course of the Roman Road. Then follow the MR into Long Marton where you pick up the BW which runs along the S side of the railway to the road at Stamp Hill Farm (if access is blocked follow the track alongside the conveyor to the road). From here follow MRs to Kirkland and the Maiden Way (BW) over Melmerby Fell and the white road to Alston. Alternatively, follow the Pennine Way BW from Kirkland to Garrigill and then the road to Alston. Follow the road N from Alston to Williamston and then the BW on the E of the river to Eals. Then make your way to the BW that starts near Burnfoot at NY664604 and follow this W to the A689 at Coalfell. Follow the A689 into Brampton and proceed through the village on the A6071. After crossing the River Irthing, take the MR R to Irthington and then the BW from NY496613 NW, crossing Hadrian's Wall, to Laversdale, then the BW to the MR at NY466630. Follow the MR through Barclose and then R to the BW at NY438641. Follow this BW to Howberry and then MR to Westlinton, and then take NCR7 via the old railway to Longtown. Day 15 - Longtown to Tibbie Shiels Leaving England, immediately the terrain seems to change. Scottish Estates, shooting tracks and forest trails all make up the typical terrain. A tough finish but a fine descent for a well earned pint.
Day 16 - Tibbie Shiels to Castlecary A very long, hard day with lots of climbing to start and then a good deal of tarmac in the middle section of the day, but still enough off-road to keep it interesting. From the Inn take the A708 N alongside St Mary's Loch. At Cappercleuch take the MR W to Meggett Reservoir dam and at NT208234 take the track N over Redsike Head and then the MR N to Macbeth's Castle. At NT 207342 take the track WNW to Dawyck Mill. At the B712 turn L and then R on the MR to Broughton (café). From the church take the track NW to Skirling. After a short section on the A72 take the track N to Candy Mill, then the MR to Elsrickle. Follow the track N to Walston and then the MR via Weston to join the track at NT035475. Follow this track to the A70 and then on to East Yardhouses. From here follow MRs to Forth and join the B715, following this all the way to Meadowfoot where at NS922599 you take the track L through the forest (waymarked) to the B7066 at Eastfield. Take the track N out of Eastfield that crosses the M8 and takes you through fields to Blairmuckhill where you go R on the MR to join NCR75 at NS898658. Follow this former railway W all the way to Hillend Reservoir, bypass Caldercruix on the B road and take the track N at NS826684. At the MR turn L and follow MRs NW to Palacerigg Country Park. Take the track NW, on the W edge of the Park, which ends at the MR at NS776746. Follow the MR past Kilt Farm to Castlecary. Day 17 - Castlecary to Kingshouse, Strathyre A great day leading into the Trossachs and some excellent forest trails and lochside paths. Leaving Castlecary join the towpath of the Forth and Clyde canal at NS789787 and follow it W to the MR at NS737774. Proceed N to cross the A803 and take the track N past Banton Loch and Riskend to the MR. Follow this over the top of the hill and at NS735815 take the track L into the Carron Valley Forest. Follow the forest track that skirts the S edge of the reservoir to the B818 at Todholes. Follow this road W to Fintry and then take the B822 N to Balafark. Here take the track NW to the A811. In Buchlyvie (café) turn R onto the B835 and at NS567943 pick up the old railway which takes you NW to Barbodoes. You have to leave the railway here, as there is no bridge over the River Forth, and take the A81 N to Cobleland where you rejoin the railway (now NCR) to Aberfoyle. From here join the NCR7 N through the forest all the way to Loch Venachar and Callander. Continue on NCR7 which follows the old railway as it climbs slowly up the Pass of Leny and past Loch Lubnaig to Strathyre (café). Follow the A84 N to Kingshouse (hotel). Day 18 - Kingshouse, Strathyre to Kinlochleven The West Highland Way - fantastic trail riding and awesome scenery - a magnificent, albeit strenuous, day. From the hotel at Kingshouse follow NCR7 N along the old railway through Glen Ogle to where it joins the A85 at NN558284. Follow the A85 to Crianlarich where at NN384251 you take the track W into the forest and then join the West Highland Way (WHW) following it NW to Tyndrum (café). Follow the WHW to Bridge of Orchy and then take the MR (this section of the WHW isn't passable by bike) to the Inveroran Hotel (tea!) and Forest Lodge. From here rejoin the WHW off-road to the Kings House Hotel, then climb (walk) the Devil's Staircase and eventually enjoy the long descent into Kinlochleven. Day 19 - Kinlochleven to Fort Augustus More West Highland Way delivers a tough start but then a flowing descent into Fort William followed by easy riding along the Great Glen.
Day 20 - Fort Augustus to Contin Great trails along the Great Glen and an easy afternoon ride leaving Loch Ness behind. From Fort Augustus rejoin the Great Glen Cycle Route and follow it along the N shore of Loch Ness to Drumnadrochit (café), then at NH531301 join the Great Glen Way as it climbs out of the glen. At the MR at NH541357 go NW via Fassock and a section of white road to Belladrum Farm. Join the A833 N at NH520427 and then the A862 to Beauly and Muir of Ord. Then take the A832 to Marybank and MR to the power station at NH446545 from where you take the track N to Contin. Day 21 - Contin to Lairg Superb long forest trails and shooting tracks, followed by a tarmac finish. From the centre of Contin take the forest trail that starts at NH454567 and follow this past Rogie Falls to Strathgarve Lodge where you join the MR. Cross over the A835 at NH400636 and follow the forestry track through Longart Forest to rejoin the A road near Inchbae Lodge Hotel (tea). Follow the road NW to Black Bridge and then take the long track N along Loch Vaich and Gleann Mor to the MR at Glencalvie Lodge. At NH473909 turn R and follow the MR NE, E and N to Culrain. Follow the cycleway from the station, over the river and alongside the railway, to Invershin. Take the A837 and then the B864 past the Shin Falls to Lairg. Day 22 - Lairg to Forsinard Leave civilisation truly behind and experience Scottish Wilderness. More long tracks and only one tea stop make this a lonely but rewarding ride. Leave Lairg heading N on the A836 (NCR1) to the Crask Inn (tea). You could avoid some of this (albeit really a single lane MR) A road by finding a route via the forest tracks on the E of the road. After refreshments at the Crask Inn (the only tea opportunity of the day), backtrack slightly to NC524246 where you take the track that heads E across the moor. This starts off quite boggy and difficult but eventually becomes a good shooting track passing Loch A Bhealaich and Loch Choire to Loch Choire Lodge. From here take the long track NE to the B871 where you go R along the Helmsdale River to Kinbrace. From here follow the A897 N to Forsinard and the hotel which is by the station. Day 23 - Forsinard to John O'Groats A day of two halves; more endless shooting tracks at the start give way to an unavoidable tarmac finish. John O'Groats as a location may be a touch anti-climatic, but the feeling of achievement is tremendous. Phone for a taxi to Thurso and celebration!
Notes: 1. A Word document with more details and links to photos can be downloaded here but it weighs in at over 3MB so may take some time
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